Step by Step Nail Sculpting Tutorial
Hello everyone and that’s a grammar school how to extend the nails to make sure that they don’t break or peel today i will give detailed instructions from a to let’s get into:
Here are the nails that we will extend today there is an old coverage that we need to remove completely, Nail prepping is one of the key steps there are two main techniques chemical and mechanical lifting up the nail scales with a file and then using some adhesive products. first lift up the cuticle with an orange stick and do an e-file manicure to remove the coating i will be using a green carbide drill bit the coating is thin, so i don’t push too hard and move from right to left i keep a thin layer left to touch it up with the file we need to do a clean manicure to avoid.
Lifting in the cuticle zone first mat the surface with a 180 slash 240 grit nail file making long moves from left to right to shape the fridge, find the lowest in gross point and start filing with it our task is to file the fridge symmetrically just set up the form without trimming it. and again we need to remove the fridge completely before setting up the form if we keep it there will be a gap between the nail and the form and the form will slip so we won’t build up the architecture correctly we can do any manicure time before sculpting classic remover or e-file just make sure that there is no pterygium left spreading on the nail, plate otherwise there will be liftings along the cuticle line we can cut the cuticle now or after sculpting after filing the nail surface, since beginner attacks often overfile the cuticle so you’d better keep it for now i decided to cut the cuticle right away.
Now fold the tissue and remove all the dust make sure there is none of it left under the cuticle or in the sinuses if the client’s nails are sweating, apply some dehydrator to dry up the nail plate these nails are normal so i will just use a primer it’s a product providing better bonding between the nail and the coating,and there are acidic and acid-free options acidic ones are used on sweating or problematic nails so we mostly use acid-free primers here’s how to apply it, squeeze the brush well on the neck of the bottle and make three moves through the center on the right and on the left so this amount will do for a few nails since the axis causes lifting stew wait for it to evaporate a bit and move on to the base coat we can use a gel or gel polish base coat. just make sure that it suits the client’s nail type it may be rubber or hard since there is no free edge it will not affect wearability, apply a thin layer of the base coat tilt the finger down to avoid pulling in the cuticle zone otherwise the gel will pull too and peel off, apply it close to the cuticle and cure in the lamp considering the recommended time the next crucial step is choosing the forms for sculpting there are paper.
Plastic and aluminum based forms aluminum ones haul the arch perfectly they do not open up while curing plastic ones may open up and these paper ones are hugely popular with beginners, these are not the best but nail techs buy them these forms look the same at first glance but this first form is softer and it opens up in the lamp this form is harder but we won’t tell it just by looking at them whether they are tacky enough and easy to use so we need to test them out first, i personally prefer using such aluminum forms but since these are the most popular ones let’s extend the nails using them wipe off the tacky layer first so that the dust could not get stuck to the base coat. Now remove one form cut along the perforation and remove the central part, and first things first we need to curl the form like this until it follows the natural nail curve now set it up in this position we will sculpt a natural almond shape today.
So we will set up the form straight a bit downward it fits the middle nail nicely there is no gap in the center and on the index nail we can’t tilt it down too mucsince otherwise the nail will appear curved so in this case we set it up straight and then there are no gaps on the sides between the form and the ingross points, so the material will pull there and the nails will crack to fix this we need to cut out this piece on the form so mark it with scissors.
And cut make sure to cut it out symmetrically since otherwise the nail will get twisted it is one of the most common mistakes so practice the cutout the central axis on the form should, follow the central axis of the finger i will cut mine a bit more it fits nicely now, but if we keep it like this then the nail will get too wide in the ingross points our clients call such nails shovels and we need an elegant shape so to set up the form correctly.
We need to make cuts in the ingrown points diagonally open up the scissors and make five to seven millimeter cuts let’s see that’s it, while you’re still learning you’d better trim each form first and only then sand them all up otherwise they may easily slip i know this part may seem too tedious and time consuming but once you get enough practice one form will take you 30 seconds.
The last phalanx on the middle nail is curved but we cut out the form straight to fix this i often read in the comments why do we need to do this we can just keep it as it is well technically yes we can but then the nail architecture will get curved such nails won’t last long and there will be cracks in the ingrows points.
Now let’s move on to the most difficult part the form setup it’s actually not as difficult as it seems you just need to get the hang of it once practice it multiple times and then each time you will do it better and better but there are many nuances and if you want to know them all for both almond and square shapes i invite you to check out my new online course on nail sculpting the link will be in the description box it is officially available in english now take up the form holding it by the very tip now stick it precisely, it is crucial for the nails to get even since we’re shaping almonds we can curl the tip into a needle shape and here’s the first drawback of this forms i have stuck it precisely ear to ear but the central line goes sideways, that means that the lining on the form is not precise and the nail may get asymmetrical so that is the main minus here now apply it to the nail and set it up.
Make sure that the form does not get under the hyponychium aka the skin under the nail since there will be a gap then now stick the rear ears on the index nail we can see the hyponychium here so if we set up the form under it there will be a gap so unstick the ears adjust the form and set it up between the nail and the hypen again it shouldn’t be painful and if it is then you’re pulling it too hard the nail turns white here we don’t need that just set it up close enough and watch.
The client’s reaction this way there will be no layering on the inside now we don’t stick it yet just the ears first we need to make sure that it’s all symmetrical, apply a file or a stick through three phalanges of the finger and the center of the cuticle and here the central line and the form goes sideways so the nail gets twisted open it up, and adjust the form position since even the tiniest curve will be noticeable on long nails make sure to watch it for short nails as well though now stick the form and press it well.
Under the finger it’s the key point make sure that there is a symmetrical triangle from the top view the side walls are covered by the form it should be well pressed so do one nail at a time to make sure that the forms do not slip beginner attacks often set up the forms on all the nails right away so they fall by the time they proceed with the material layout i will use a milky gel today medium viscosity so it gets spread nicely and aligns quickly if you are just learning you’d better use a thick gel since it will not pull that much, we can use a synthetic gel brush but to lay it out smoothly use a thin one now grab some material.
Put it on the form pull the length you need turn the client’s finger and get in the ingross point and a bit higher these areas are crucial ,there should be no gaps left there so lay out the fridge as if paint in a french tip make sure to turn the finger sideways since if we pull a diagonal line from the ingross point to the fridge, then after sculpting the nail will slip up growing so we need to pull a straight line first and only then a smooth lift like this use a measuring tool to compare the length, pull the material towards the center before curing the nail now sand it to cure for 30 seconds now that it’s cured we can remove the form, press it well until air pockets appear between the form and the nail unstick the upper ears and pull the form down so as not to break this thin underlay and move on to the next nail, same here stick the form symmetrically form a sharp nettle tip open it up set the form between the nail and the hyponychium check the symmetry turn the hand away if needed and most importantly press it well under the finger try to lay out the material precisely so as not to file a lot later, if we set up the form correctly there is no need to clip the nail we clip them only if the nails are trapezoidal wide or the form has opened up while curing that happens now sand the nail into the lamp here are the underlays so we’ve got two options here we can layout the main layer of the material or wipe off the tacky layer and file the free edge.
File carefully so as not to break the underly there is so little to file since we have laid it out perfectly so wipe off all the dust and proceed, with the main layer we need a wide brush this time now till the finger down to avoid pulling cover up the nail plate without getting deeper than the base coat layer otherwise there will be liftings grab a big drop of the gel put it on the highest point place the brush at a 45 degree angle and spread the gel in the cuticle zone, pulling it towards the free edge don’t get too deep into the material and make sure to lean on with your pinky finger of the active hand then you will apply it perfectly touch it up where needed using a thin brush turn the nail over to let the gel flow to the center check the highlight and if it’s all even sand the nail to cure in the lamp the second option we’ll lay it out right away and we will file the shape after polymerization cover up the nail plate, then put a drop keep it thicker near the cuticle since it can cause liftings too so blend it in well, moving on to the next nail if your gel is too liquid you can make it a bit thicker by storing it in a cold place for example a fridge.
Now wipe off the tacky layer and let’s file those nails that are left shape the free edge making long rocking moves, file the tip next turn the finger place the file under the material and file the lower parallel file all the material overlay if there’s an and that’s it this nail looks fine tosh up the shape where needed i like making the side walls a bit narrower compare the lens it should be the same, now above the surface to smooth it out then decrease the nails remove the dust and cover them up with a top coat tilt the finger down to avoid pulling again i’m using a shimmery top coat apply a medium layer lay the brush down and pull, now turn it over for 10 seconds to let it align and sand the nail secure [Music] here’s the result, make sure to try out this technique i’m sure you will like it check out my other nail extension videos success in your work bye bye.
